Complete Walkthrough for Car lights Modification – Nilight

Complete Walkthrough for Car lights Modification

Whenever I find a lot of people want to upgrade their lights, but do not know how to start, online enquiry only, the information is not centralized, but controversial, there are opinions from experts and layman, don't know what to follow, so we came up with an idea, and write a professional car lights modification tutorial, gathering ideas and experience of countless people, as well as mistakes they made. Hope to be helpful for you.

I am engaged in car lights refit for more than 8 years, and will analyze the car lights overall from the professional point of view. The lights is a double-edged sword, you will be benefited a lot if making good use of them, but if making wrong of them, you will be the first to be hurt. As long as you read this article patiently, I believe you will have a brand-new understanding and knowledge of car lights.

This paper will elaborate car lights from three aspects, i.e., halogen headlights, xenon headlights, LED lights; I think you will have a comprehensive and detailed understanding of the car lights after reading, which will be of great help for you to install the car lights; If you have any question after finishing the article, please leave a message immediately. We (Nilight) will give you a satisfactory reply as soon as possible.


Halogen headlights accompany us for many years, and are still in widespread use nowadays, in fact, a single halogen bulb is 1000 lumens, more than 20 lumens per watt, luminous efficiency is a little low, with this kind of complex (R-plane) reflectors, its use ratio is about 40%, yes, you have no wrong, about 400 lumens can be really used, other light either is covered off or is eliminated, and the appearance of the left and right headlights must be symmetric, but the light pattern is exactly opposite, so very little light can be used indeed.


The standard color temperature is 3200 k for Halogen light , namely it is often called candle color, which is the best color temperature to pierce rain and fog, but the 3200 k color temperature is a little yellow indeed, because warm yellow can make people feel easy and comfortable, the most appropriate place for the color should be in the bedroom or living room in winter, and warm yellow can give people a kind of warm and cozy feeling. In fact, there are many color temperature can choose on the market, but higher or lower than 3200K bulbs are with a coating around the bulb glass, so as to change the color temperature of the bulb, but this technology is quite mature, but the service life of the bulb may be slightly shortened.


Above pic already contains most of the light bulb for halogen headlights, the specifications and encapsulation form of the light bulb is the general standard all over the world, which is not manufacturer's standard, that is to say the original car is Osram H1 bulbs, then changing to Philips H1 bulb is also OK, but only to pay attention to is the power must be the same. The package form of this kind of bulb represents the length of filament and the focus from all manufacturers must reach to that position, otherwise, it will cause light not to gather or beam of light to be out of shape, as to performance, that depends on the quality of each manufacturer.

If the original car is a 55W H4 bulb, now install 100W H4 bulb with same specification, although the shape and encapsulation are the same, you will face the following problems:

1. Headlight line aging in advance, do not trust individual manufacturers who say that can be directly replaced, in fact, this is a trap.

2. The connector at the tail of the bulb may be melted directly, causing short circuit.

3. The reflective cover of the headlight is baked to be out of shape or reflective layer falls off.

Of course, some people have used other solutions, such as after upgrading bulb power, changing the connector at the end of the bulb to ceramic base, and then add a headlight brightener, in fact, it is part of or all headlights draw power directly from the battery, but it still can't avoid the third problem, i.e., the reflective cover be out of shape and reflective layer be baked fall off, also headlight mask is baked yellow and other problems, because the halogen light is to emit light by heating, power from 55W up to 100W directly, the heat will rise a lot, of course, if the headlight is really cheap, you can try, but according to people who did that, the effect is just so-so.

As long as it is H1, it means that the specification and model is the same for every manufacturer, only difference is color temperature and brightness, that is, any H1 bulb can be installed in your H1 headlight.

If you still don’t know the headlight is a consumable, just come and read, the service life of halogen bulbs is between 500 and 1000 hours, in fact, even the light bulb does not burn, the brightness will decay away a lot after 500 hours, such as just below 30%, normally, down to 50% after one year, you need to consider replacing a pair of light bulbs at most two years. As for the color temperature, it can be seen from the above figure that Philips and Osram give us a lot of choices, of course, there are many other manufacturers, not name each one, for those who want to improve the brightness, for example, you can choose Philips Night Strength Light (3700K) (+130%), the brightness is increased by 130% based on the original standard bulb. But the color temperature is also raised a little, not so yellow.

There is also another case, after replacing the bulb, you find the replaced bulb isn’t so bright as the original one, that is, the reflective cover of the original headlight has also been aging, and the reflective efficiency is certainly not as good when the car was bought. There is also another possibility that it is a fake bulb, not genuine. Halogen headlights are characterized by good effect of piercing rain and fog, but in the place with street lights, especially light, just as you didn’t turn on the headlight, look ok on suburban dirt roads, the reason will be explained later.

Replacing a bulb is actually very simple, find the manual instruction of original car to read, specifications and model are written clearly on it, or take down the original one to check the specifications, or check on the Internet, or ask online customer service staff, then you could determine the type, and it is very easy to replace the bulb, open headlight dust cover, remove bulb holder fastener, take off the bulb, aim at gap to install, then done, if you couldn’t make it, you could also turn to car dealer for help, if feel troublesome, go to car dealer directly for replacement, no need to check, also simply matters, just spend more money.

If replacing by yourself, the model replaced differs from the original one, it may be out of focus, then you will find the following situation, can not find high beam and low beam, and this situation should be avoided.


Generally speaking, halogen headlights are not so bright, but they can be used. Some people say that I don't drive at night, so no need to replace them. Well, it depends on you. Let’s see the light used when raining first, regardless of day or night:

Light to moderate rain: low beam

Heavy rain: low beam + front fog light

Rainstorm: low beam + front&rear fog lights, a lot of people do not know there are rear fog lights.

In fact, it is very dangerous to turn on emergency lights when it is raining. In this case, the rear car does not know whether the front car is driving or is really broken down, so it will be too late to brake when it comes to the near. In addition, it is useless to turn on the small lights, parking lights or clearance lights when it is raining heavily.

So, do you still dare to say that you don't use lights because you don't drive at night?

Some people don’t add lens for halogen headlights, directly replace with xenon bulbs, commonly known as naked xenon lights, such modified lights do not shine on the road, but can make the opposite car instant blindness, basically harm yourself and others.


Car headlight masks will age after a few years of use, the surface has a layer of foggy aging layer, or accidentally scratched, both can be repaired with the following method. If it's aging inside the headlight,the method won't work.

1. First cover the car paint around the edge of the headlight with the textured paper, in order to prevent the car paint from being thrown off when polishing the mask surface with fine sand paper.

2. check the roughness of the headlight surface, you can choose no. 1200 waterproof abrasive paper first for rough grinding, and then polish slowly with no. 2000 waterproof abrasive paper, if the roughness is relatively small, you can directly use the polishing of no. 2000.

3. When polishing with sandpaper, you must add water simultaneously when polishing, otherwise it is very difficult to achieve the desired effect.

4. If you want better effect, you could spray a little headlight mask repair fluid.


As for those who sell headlight repair fluid, they say it will be bright after you spray, do you believe it? Above mentioned steps 1, 2 and 3 cannot be avoided.

Nowadays the car is becoming more and more high level of appearance, but the configuration couldn’t be same high level, especially the headlights, analogy as car's eyes, you look at models & logo to determine driving habits when daylight, while at night, you began to second kill any candles random, headlights become the only means of communication at night, plus many car fans are very tired when driving on highways at night, the torture is out of imagination for those who do not drive, and occasionally encountered the high beam, the mood of this day: unhappy!! So instead of breaking out in silence, we can't resist the desire to modify in silence. Let's see how to realize this bright dream step by step.


Xenon headlights are the mainstream three years ago, mainly due to the good-looking shape, and can be mounted with the evil eye/angel eyes, which makes the headlights look bright, more distinctive and individual, luminous efficiency is also good, the most important thing is the tangent line is great for low beam, it is very distinct for dividing line between brightness and darkness, when low beam is turned on, it won’t cause dazzling or glare for the driver in the car coming from opposite side, which will greatly improve the security and confidence of driving safety.


Regarding the utilization of light, the double light xenon headlights is not 80% as manufacturers promote , in my opinion, 60% should be a normal figure, and it is under the condition of high beam, if some low beam is blocked off, the utilization rate won’t be more than 40%, the light transmittance is not more than 90% for just half round lens in front, and light-leaking is also very serious for the distance between the reflective bowl and lens. After decorative cover is installed, the light is blocked in, but it is hard to be a useful light. Take a closer look at the picture below for a better understanding.


In addition, there is pocking or Fresnel mirror processing technology on the surface of the lens, these uniform light processing will cause some light loss. But 3200 lumens *60% = 1920 lumens, which is almost 5 times the effective use of 400 lumens for halogen headlights.

If you want to modify a xenon light, you have to do some research, otherwise it's easy to make a big mistake, you know

Let's go through them one by one.

Xeon Bulb

Xeon Bulb

Xenon bulbs are usually named with three characters "D# X".

The D stands for xenon lamp, High Intensity Discharge, similar to the H for halogen lamp.

"#" is the number "1, 2, 3, 4", singular number means with starter, even number means without starter. 1 and 2 are designed with mercury, while 3 and 4 are designed without mercury.

"X" stands for the letters "S, R", S for lens, R for reflective bowl.

For example, D1S stands for mercury-xenon bulb with a starter on the lens.

Take a look at the "R", D2R and D4R bulb match with car system without lens (such as 12 generation crown low beam, 8 generation Accord low beam and so on), with a layer of coating on the surface, block off some light, and the role is anti-glare;

D1S and D3S bulbs integrate the high pressure part and the bulb body, while  the high pressure part and bulb body is separated for D2S and D4S bulb.


D1S and D3S, D2S and D4S, although similar in appearance, in fact, these four are completely different, the gap of installation position is not the same, and the voltage is not the same, D1S and D2S are 85V with mercury, while D3S and D4S is environmental protection 45V voltage.

The concept of mercury-free design was first suggested by The Japanese, and was later accepted by Europe then widely promoted. That is to say, although the D1S and D2S with mercury are brighter and faster start than the D3S and D4S without mercury, the trend of environmental protection is irreversible. D1S and D2S may be discontinued in four or five years, but D1S and D2S will continue to be produced in these two years until D3S and D4S are brighter than D1S and D2S, D3S and D4S are the mainstream products of the future. Of course D1S and D2S are mercury-containing products, and improper handling will pollute the environment.

At the moment of startup, D1S and D2S are all bright and give off a dazzling blue glow, the brightness is about 150%, then slowly to 130%, and then to 100% stable about 5~8 seconds , which is why it is relatively stable in the startup process but looks whiter afterwards. Mercury is a stabilizer, which can make xenon continue to glow after ionization. However, mercury-free D3S and D4S tend to be red or yellow in the startup process. The startup moment is 40%, and then 70%. After 100% stabilization, the color will return to normal. So you will feel the startup time is relative a little bit longer, but all will reach to stabilization after about 5-8 seconds. These bulbs all support fast startup and flashing, like starting one or two seconds, turn off then turn on immediately, it will continue the startup process based on the original brightness, but it will reduce the service life, so do not pursue quick startup, the startup speed is almost the same for xenon lamp. When used for changing light to warn vehicles in front, it is also to switch between high beam and low beam. In fact, the xenon bulb stays on all the time during the process, just the dimmer in the lens flicking up and down, it's not the xenon bulb flickering, it's not reducing the service life of the bulb, but if you insist in switching between low beam and off low beam, I'm sorry, as mentioned above, it can affect the service life of the xenon bulb.

Generally speaking, D1S and D3S are for European cars, D2S and D4S are for Japanese cars, while D3S and D4S are mainly used in joint ventures. Most models are arranged in this way.

Relatively speaking, D1S and D2S with mercury have a longer service life than mercury-free D3S and D4S. Mercury-free designs generally have a service life of about two years.

The ballast and voltage is the same for D1S and D2S . Although it can be used universally, it must be with a converted connector. Therefore, D3S and D4S have the same logic, for example, when upgrading from D3S standard bulb to Philips D1S XV+, the ballast must be changed because the voltage is different.

Xenon bulbs in general will not burn, will slowly become dim only, this process is the process for drivers to enjoy, use 2 hours a day on average, good xenon bulbs generally are 3 ~ 5 years, of course what I meant is authentic brand new one. If it is used one or fake, service life is uncertain, and it also has a direct relationship with the time of using, If you barely use it, it'll be fine for eight or ten years.

When you purchase xenon bulbs, they must be packaged, i.e., with commercial packaging, the packaging of each product is not the same, if you do not know what it is, check more information, to buy on the formal website or store, in order to prevent the purchase of factory-packed or unpackaged fake.

In addition, it isn’t the same concept for the brightness of the bulb and the color temperature, the color temperature is 4200K for standard xenon lamp, while 5000K or 5500K will look more white, just dazzling, eye-catching, and the brightness is the lumen value provided by the bulb.

4200K standard xenon bulb appears on the market for many years, although it has been selling nowadays, but the follow-up brightening product is also quite good, and there is a choice of color temperature, the reference price is the price of TB and JD. In terms of bulb specifications, Osram CBI and Philips XV are both very good configurations. Of course, the subsequent OSram Night Starer XNB and Philips WHV+ also have some competition. Philips XV+ is basically the top xenon bulb at present, which appears on the market for not long time, and I will explain slowly afterwards.

When choosing bulbs, brightening up is one factor, and the color temperature is also an important factor to consider, American enterprises do have unique business philosophy during these two hundred years, that is to avoid direct competition, but to do a win-win market. Only from the point of color temperature and brightening up, the color temperature of Philips and Osram  is the same only for the standard model, while others are different, always allowing customers a different choice, instead of price battle on same field. When Philips launched the XV 4800K, Osram was selling the CBI 5500K. Now,  Philips launched the 5000K WHV+ (+120%), and Osram is selling the 4500K Nightwalker XNB (+70%). It seems that Osram is at a disadvantage position, but Osram also has 45W ballast for complement, so these two manufacturers allow customers two completely different differentiation programs in terms of color temperature + brightening + price.


Xenon lamp is without filament, only an arc after Xenon ionization glows in the center, after electrodes on both ends are with high pressure, it inspires salt material in center pill to produce light of this kind color temperature, so we can get desired color temperature by controlling the collocation of salts material,  but that is the secret of the manufacturer. Xenon lamp is usually equipped with constant power ballast, so only at this power, such as 35W ballast, the color temperature of the bulb will remain constant. If the ballast is raised from 35W to 45W or 55W, the bulb may not be the original marked color temperature, may be up or down. This depends on the product itself of each manufacturer.

Although they are both standard 4200K color temperature, Philips 4200K is whiter than Osram 4200K in actual use, which is verified by many car enthusiasts who make modification, so we should trust the judgment of the masses. If you don't like bulbs with very yellow color temperature, try not to use Osram ordinary 66144 4200K xenon lights.

Actually, there is a close relationship between brightness and focus , usually xenon lights with more accurate focus have a better brightness in the center area of high beam, Philips XV+ top xenon lights mainly have two improvements, one is ratio improvement for the central pill, directly improving bulb light brightness, while the other is accuracy improvement for bulb focus, which makes light out from lens more focused,  and actual effect is better. Hella's dual optical lens, of course, is also designed corresponding to Philips' xenon bulb focus.

headlightGenerally speaking, imported ballast is better a little, commonly used is Philips, Osram, Hela, Valeo (someone saidthe starting current was big, and affected the USB), Osram (Italian and domestic PRC), Denso (Japan with low failure rate), Panasonic (multiple D2S), Mitsubishi (some Audi BMW original car parts), Koito (domestic assembly which is the most used currently and most high imitation ) and so on.

At present, most of the imported ballasts are 35W on the market, only Osram has a 45W ballast, in terms of the efficiency:

Osram D1S 4200K + Osram 35W ballast =3200 lumens

Osram D1S 5500K CBI (+20%) + Osram 45W ballast = 5000 lumens

There is indeed a great improvement, but the color temperature of OSram CBI is 5500K when using 35W ballast, but when using 45W ballast, the color temperature will be reduced from 5500K to 5000K, which means it is not as white as before, and the effect will be slightly better in rainy and foggy days. So the xenon bulb color temperature labeled by the manufacturer is the color temperature under normal power, which is generally 35W. Whether Philips or Osram, the color temperature will deviate a little from the original, but not too much, if the ballast is lifted directly from 35W to 45W.

If you do not replace the bulb and lens, directly replacing with the 45W ballast, the upgrade effect is generally not much. Upgrading bulb and lens, if the original ballast has good effect, it can continue to be used. There will be something wrong with the ballast when it is just installed, it will be stable after a period time, and the repair rate is less than 2% for good brands.

When choosing ballasts, we must choose commercial package, factory package or loose package might be imitation goods or dismantling parts.

Automobile headlight lens means the whole of lens + reflective cup, it should be said as a lens assembly, but lens always refers to the assembly, there are two main types of lens on the market, namely single photon lens and double optical lens, the difference is that most of single photon lens are with halogen, applied to the car with high beam and low beam separated, while double optical lens are most used for cars with high beam and low beam integrated, halogen and xenon double optical lens are both available, the former is cheap, while the latter is expensive. The brightness is just so-so for Halogen single photon lens, the most are plastic reflective cups. It is fixed for separation blade in the middle of single photon lens, and there is no variable optical motor.


There is no need to add a variable optical motor for this kind of single photon in order to change to be a dual optical lens, because the effect is not good, the reflector design for single photon lens is to focus most of the light on the low beam, even if adding the variable optical motor, there is no much light on the high beam.


There is a variable light motor in the middle of the double optical lens, when low beam, the motor does not work, when high beam, the variable light motor sucks the sweeping light sheet down, so that the high beam could be shined out. The principle is shown as the figure below:



For those who still don't know the difference between a high definition lens and a pitting and Fresnel lens, please take a look at the picture below:


The HD mirror has the best transmittance, but it is not just bright to see clearly. The important thing is the contrast and uniform brightness, just like the mobile phone will automatically dim the screen brightness in the room, and automatically brighten the screen brightness in the sun, in order to maintain the same brightness as the surrounding environment, to ensure that you can see comfortably. Pitting and Fresnel lens have a very good uniform light effect and natural paving effect, which not only raises the difficulty of imitation, and reduces the processing requirements, such as HD lens have black spots impurities or bubble inside, which will be infinitely magnified, while pitting and Fresnel can reduce the machining flaws by utilizing uniform light effect, a bit like shadowless lamp for operating tables, whether hands block the light or not, you can see it clearly as well because the light is coming from different directions.

Currently, the best lens on the market is double optical lens of Hella series, such as Hella 5, Hella 6, here means Hella double optical lens imported from German with original packaging, and of course, Koito Q5, as for HD Hella 5, pitting Hella 5, Super Hella 5, Custom Hella 5, Special supply Hella 5, all of these are domestic Hella 5 double optical lens, namely high imitation. The quality is different, of course, some of domestic one are also good, such as G1S produced by Changsha SLPP. The key is you need to distinct by yourself, and there are also many lenses which are not introduced. Before modification, you could check online, how about the word of mouth for the lens to be installed, and then take action. It’s better not to choose those with bad quality, or short service life, or dismantling parts. Once the lens are encapsulated into the headlight, if something goes wrong, you could only open headlight, or replace the assembly, no other choice. If it is your DIY, that is better; if it is bought online and installed by the shop, the quality problem of this lens is not covered by the warranty of the modification shop.

The general problem that lens may appear is that the variable light motor is stuck after a short time, there is no high beam, or the lens is aging, leading to the reduction of reflective efficiency, so that the brightness of the headlamp is reduced a lot.


This is easy to understand, that is, the lens tail can be directly inserted into the hole of the halogen lamp reflective cover, can be fixed by tightening the screw, no need to punch holes on the reflective cover or cut tail to fix, DIYers can try, but the effect will be limited due to xenon bulbs. This kind of lens is mostly made in China, and the effect is different. There are two main points to consider here: a bad lens will be stuck, and the reflective cup coating will age in advance, after all, the working temperature is very high for Xenon lamp.

Low beam tangent, this is a very humanized design, especially the tangent of xenon lamp, it is not dazzling at all above cut-off line, which improves a lot of safety in the process of driving.


Low beam tangent is to give a safety sight to the driver coming from opposite side, if they can't see the road, our safety will have no guarantee, halogen tangent is generally 25 meters to the ground, while others are 35 to 50 meters to the ground, but no matter what standard of tangent, Hella tangent is still the most humane, with a gap in the middle, just miss the sight of drivers coming from opposite side, and the safety factor has been increased exponentially.


General dimming is between 35 meters and 50 meters to the ground, but in my opinion, as long as not dazzling to others, in fact, the far the low beam is, the better, and you will know that by looking at the distance of driving at night.

50 yards for the speed will require 52.5 meters distance to ensure safety, while the speed of 110 yards, it has to be 131 meters to guarantee the safe distance, relatively car can adjust further, because the location of the light is low, while SUV has to pay attention, if low beam is too high, it may directly shine on the rear view mirror of preceding vehicles. High beam has to shine further distance. Car enthusiasts who often run at high speed must pay attention to the speed, especially when their lights are not bright, could only concentrate on to shorten the reaction time, to tell the truth, it is tired, the braking distance can not be changed, otherwise you can only modify headlights or install car spot lights to improve the night range of visibility.


The demon eye is installed in the inner chamber of the lens, bayonet down, close to the inner surface of the lens, wire harness through down the inner surface of the lens to connect the clearance or small light, you can be fix the demon eye with silica gel, it is best not to use the AB glue, otherwise when it is heated, it will volatilize and remain on the surface of the lens, causing cataract.

Angel eyes is a light guide installed in the headlights lens hood outer decorative guide rings, of course, can also be connected to the outer ring of headlamps reflective cup , there are two wires or three wires, two wires are red and black, directly connecting to the clearance light or small lamp will be OK, someone may connect to ACC, depending on your own actual situation, for three wires, one wire is connected to the headlight, when the headlight is on, Angel eye brightness will be halved.

This thing is also good-looking, but for those bad quality, one don’t work, the effect of mono-eye is also very attractive, if not believe, you can try.


Blue eyes, very obvious in daylight, certainly attract a lot of MM's attention, the probability of chasing after girls increases by 50%. But adding angel eye is not to have everything to gain and nothing to lose, if the quality is not good, it do not work after a short time, at that time, only an angel eye, that will annoy you. Also, when there is the car inspection, you have to take down Angel eyes in advance, otherwise it will increase the possibility of failure.

General speaking, if modifying light, for low beam and high beam separated,  the first choice is to change low beam, for high beam and low beam integrated, it has only one, so you could only modify this one, such as integration H4, you can choose H4 double optical lens, taking headlight apart, screwing, fixing the lens on the reflectors, that is done, you can also set a tube and install it into H7 double optical lens, both of them are nondestructive installation, i.e., not modifying reflectors of headlights. If you want to install D series dual optical lens, you must punch holes in the reflector of H4 halogen headlight, cut off some of the bottom to pass through the lens, such a complex process is best to modify in the modification shop, because it is too risky to modify by yourself.

Process for modifying headlights

Generally, the steps to modify headlights are as follows:

Remove hub pack or bumper - remove original headlight assembly - coating - bake - turn on light - remove glue - test lens - polish bracket or reflective cover - install lens - fix install ballast - connect power line - first lens focusing - fix lens for the 2nd time - glue after cleaning - bake seal light - Hit nail - install and dimming again, call it a day.

Now let's actually modify a set of lights to try, these pics are not taken from one light modification, and pictures are from the network, whose copyright belongs to enthusiastic car friends and sharers.

1. remove the hub pack and front bumper, there may be slight difference for the structure of each vehicle, so you need to remove according to the actual situation. If you go to the store for refit, before removing the light, you should check with the shop owner whether there is any trace on the face mask, take photos as proof, so as to avoid scratches in the process of modification, even hundreds of mouth difficult to distinguish. After removing the light, wrap the mask with plastic film first. Be sure to use the kind of good quality, not the packaging film used in the refrigerator. The plastic film should not only be high temperature resistant, strong, but also thick enough and wearproof.


2. heat light, when putting the light in the oven, you need to avoid direct contact with the metal in the oven for heat transfer, headlight has cold plastic and hot plastic, also called hard plastic and soft plastic, actually is the same thing, the difference is that the hot plastic is reversible, like water into ice, ice into water, hot plastic softened at 120 degrees or so, turn on the light directly. While cold plastic is irreversible, just as the eggs can't go back after cooked, the baking temperature of cold plastic is usually between 120-150 degrees, you can begin remove the light after baking for 5 to 15 minutes, if low temperature,  bake for more time. Note here that heating light is not really to make cold plastic melt, but the adhesion to the edge of headlights is not so strong after cold plastic is heated enough, and headlight shell will be not easy to crack. If modified by yourself, wrap the light well then put it into a carton, heat with the hair dryer, it is best to put a thermometer,  when heating, you have to blow left to right, up and down, to avoid some area is over heated, and light masks couldn’t be blown directly, if the plastic film is melting and sticking on the headlight masks, which will be trouble-some. You could remove the bottom of the carton, which is convenient for you to pick up and check at any time.

Above is most used two baking ways to open lights, there are both pros and cons, maybe there is another way to open the light, such as to use vacuum suction nozzle to suck on the headlight masks first, fix the rear of headlights, pull a rubber band for each suction mouth, provide a certain tension, and then use heating wire for opening headlight to glue around the light, as the temperature of the heating wire rise slowly, the plastic is heated, then the headlight mask is pulled apart, so it will be non-destructive disassembly of headlight mask, also no need to worry about the headlight mask aging after heating. Those interested can try.

3. open the light, removing the screw for fixing headlight masks or prying up the bayonet, if you have a professional tool, you could use a plier of opening headlights, if no professional tools, screwdriver is also OK, hard and dry, hot plastic is relatively easy to open, while for cold plastic, use needle tubing to put a circle of cold plastic separation liquid, to open cold plastic, bake one time may not work, then bake another one or two times, until it is opened, Pay attention to the corners where it's harder to open.


After open headlight, you need to thoroughly remove residual cold plastic for cold plastic, while for hot plastic, removing or not is both OK, the key is following steps of sealing the light, if you use the snake plate glue for sealing the light,  then clear it off, if you have same model hot plastic as headlight, it will be OK to fill up a little hot plastic when sealing the light. When clearing cold plastic, you can use a special tool, there is kind of electric on the online shopping platform, which is very quick for clearing. If you do it yourself, you can clean it slowly with an art knife.

4. check the bulb and ballast of commercial package(must be commercial package), and lens, start debugging lens, every time installing xenon bulbs on the lens, you need to adjust the focus slightly according to the light type of lens, in general, the focus of the Philips is more accurate than Osram, then usual tuning method for Osram is to put the bulb head down a little bit, and mainly use high beam for focusing, and the effect of low beam is also OK.


After adjusting the three-piece, there are three scenarios:

First, the low beam is lens for original cars, then you need to modify the bracket of new lens and then install on the position of original lens, there are a lot of lens bracket online, you can choose by yourself, also is special one for a special car, no need to be polished or just small modification, as shown in figure (12), if the distance is wrong, you can also put silica gel column on the bracket to adjust the distance.

Second, the original car is H4 or H7 reflecting bowl, install H4 or H7 double optical lens, this is the simplest, directly tightening the screw behind the reflecting bowl through the lens to fix.

Third the low beam is reflective bowl for the original car, but you want to use D series lens now, such as Hella 5, put reflectors on the punching mould first, fix the reflector with a nut, then flip the reflector to punch a location hole, normally there will be marked position on the mold, directly punch(14). After punching holes (15), install hole saw on the hand drill, insert hand drill into the center hole of the mould, firmly cut down(16), then round hole on reflectors is done, of course, the hole at the bottom of the reflector can also be made special shape, which depends on the size of lens to be installed and reflectors.  For special shape, you can mark a size and cut with a hand mill slowly(18).

When the lens is installed on the reflector, you have to put a silica gel column with diagonal plane on the screw to fix the lens(19). You also can use a ready-made sheet iron bracket (20) (21), which depends on the actual situation.


Fix the ballast, generally there are two cases for fixing the ballast:

1) The original car is high configuration, with xenon light, in this case, there will be space for the ballast on the headlight shell, you can make a hole to use reserved ballast position, install inward, or do not make the hole, directly install outward,  keep away from computer board of the original car as far as possible, in order to avoid interference, the space should be enough to install, avoid high temperature from machine, and then in the proper position, such as the position above the dust cover of lighting fixture, or other suitable position to make a hole and wire through.

2) There is no reserved space on the headlight shell of original cars, you could find a suitable location to make installation inward(22) or to install outward(24), and then find a suitable location to make a hole for wiring through(23). Most of the installation are these two cases, the key is the process, when selecting installation location, you must avoid the heat part of the body , also take into account the heat dissipation of ballasts. Normally, outward installation can avoid the heat radiation of xenon lights transferring to the ballast effectively, which is also a good way to improve the stability of the ballast.


The high pressure part must be wrapped with the high temperature tape of Desa, the variable light wire in the light body should also be covered with the heat shrinkable tube, so as not to expose the wire directly. You need to weld the joint of wiring well with the soldering iron, covered by the heat shrinkable tube, and then wrapped by the tape, staggering some space for two joints of wiring.


Whether the ballast installed inward or the position of the hole for wiring through, you should use Kraft K-5911 for seal, including the position of the dust cover, and filling up glue for the edge of the headlight, of course, there should be other types of silica gel can also be used.

wiring and dimming, headlights is away from the wall 7.6 meters, the focus of high beam is just at the height of low beam headlights, the height of low beam is 5 cm lower than that of high beam, the remote focus as shown in the figure:


The wire of xenon bulb is connected to the low beam of original cars, the wire of variable light is connected to the high beam of original cars, for those require decoding, you need to decode first. Then start debugging the position of the lens, the low beam focus of lens must be in accurate registration as the high beam focus of the original car, otherwise after lens are fixed, you could only make a fine-tuning for the dimming position of original headlight shells, and the high beam will move at the same time, so the dimming has to be very accurate, and then the lens is fixed.

After dimming, if you cut the reflective cover, you need to add steel soil to fix for a second time, after steel soil solidification, it is almost same effect as cement, not volatile, here it is best not to use AB glue (which isn’t high temperature resistance, and is volatile) to fix, and then install the decoration cover of lens, done.

Clear and seal the light, you couldn’t wipe the inside of the headlight mask with paper directly, if it is dirty, you could only wash with water, drying, as long as no dirty marks, it will be OK. Before installing the snake glue, check the pry marks around the headlight. If not OK, blow it with a hot air dryer and repair it. After that, set a circle of snake glue, bake it, use the light sealing plier, gun nail a round,done.


Large modification shops have plastic injection machine, if the original is hot plastic, then fill some hot plastic, if modifying by yourself, snake glue is a good thing, set a circle, bake with a hot air dryer, press with the mask, bundle with rubber rope is also OK.


The last step, installation and dimming. Up to now, all the modification process is over.


Modification is a process for imagination and implementation, each modification shop has different process, it is not the case that only professional modification tools can implement modification, if so, there would be no atomic and hydrogen bombs. To complete the task under limited conditions is the embodiment of modified strength. Of course, not everyone is suitable to modify by themselves, first, you need to have free time, second, you need to have operation ability, third you need to have keen insight. I already wrote so detailed, if you still have no ideas, I suggest you not trying it. Modifying by yourself, even if you have free time, you need to have some ideas, it will take about 1 days for light modification, if there is something wrong afterwards, you need another 1-2 days for rework, whose cost is several hundred RMB. Therefore, it is risky to modify the light by yourself, you need to be careful, if you hand it over to the modification shop, when there is a problem, you could turn to them for solving. You do not need to spend time and energy any more. Each has their advantages and disadvantages. All depends on your actual situation.

Personally, there are three levels of modification:

The first level: lens + xenon bulb + ballast = configuration under 100USD, such configuration is not certain, choose by yourself, such as all domestic, or second-hand dismantled parts, the effect is just so-so, suitable for just having some fun.

The second level: Equipped with similar lens, for example, imported Koito Q5, domestic like G1S launched by SLPP, or Super Hella 5, the effect is also OK, those with relatively suitable price and longer warranty can also be modified. Xenon bulbs should not exceed CBI+45 watt ballast or Philips XV 4800K at most. Of course, this should be done at the modification shop, this kind is within 400 USD.

The third level: the top configuration, Germany imported Hella 5 or Hella 6, xenon bulbs should be with at least CBI+45 watt ballast, Philips XV 4800K or above, these are quite amazing configuration, you need to go to shop for modification, and to find an excellent shop, this kind is more than 400 USD.

Personal advice is that regarding the configuration within 100 USD, you can modify by yourself, just for fun, or motorcycle, a light to try, if the configuration is D series lenses and xenon bulbs, absolutely do not modify by yourself, this is not worth the loss. Generally, modification shops complete modification of two headlights in 3 to 6 hours, some may be more than 10 hours, which depends on the configuration and models, the workmanship is 500 to 1000RMB, and there may be higher, of course. In addition, you need to make a detailed inspection to find the modification shop, if it is introduced by someone, do not make modification when you go for the first time, take a look at first, like a lens, waterproof headlights, lighting debugging, the best is all these are lifetime warranty and service free of charge. To find a modification shop with good reputation. It is best to shop around. You could look at the process, not take photos, but you must ensure that the lens is the one you choose when sealing the light and during the process, in order to avoid that you pay for a Germany imported Hella 5 but get a fake one installed, which will be annoying. Therefore, you need to have a knowledge about the basic information of the xenon headlights configuration in advance before modification, otherwise, you will be cheated, not keen on getting things on the cheap, after all, you get what you pay, if too cheap, you need to think twice, such as imported Hella 5 lens, 200 USD a pair, including modification, do you know what quality it is, anyway, I do not know. Another case is they installed garbage lens specially in the dismantled headlights in advance, then broke it on site to show you. Even some experts could not distinguish, not to mention the average person. So you need to know some more information to prevent from being cheated. The technology of modification shop is very important, but the sense of responsibility is more important. If the workers are indifferent, just leave as soon as possible. Also those who do not show the process, there will be some problems more or less. Imagine that real skill and word of mouth can be learned by a layman who modifies the light every three or five years. Their purpose is self-evident.

LED Light

LED, also known as light-emitting diodes (leds), currently, single LED can achieve maximum power more than hundred watts, but the greater the power, luminous efficiency is lower, because the light emitting chip is too concentrated, heat dissipation is difficult to solve, the light-emitting way of LED differs from that of halogen and xenon light, for the LED, the diode emits ultraviolet or infrared first to inspire the fluorescent powder on the surface of the light emitting chip, The color temperature is controlled by controlling the ratio of fluorescent powder.

1) Luminous flux

In terms of the light flux of various bulbs, we are all familiar with it, lumens (LM), 55W halogen bulb is 1000 lumens, 35W xenon bulb is 3200 lumens, 10W LED lamp bead is 1000 lumens.

This is the ability of emitting light for each bulb, and high & low beam of car headlights have a fixed projection pattern, so...

Halogen light: 1000 lumens *40%(utilization rate) = 400 lumens

Xenon light: 3200 lumens *60%(utilization) = 1920 lumens

So xenon headlights are several times brighter than halogen headlights. It's almost five times in terms of figure alone.

However, in term of light bulbs only, lighten a xenon bulb, without lens, can it shine to the place above 100 meters away, the answer must be no, so the secondary reflective function of lens is particularly important, how many luminous flux the bulb emits, that is luminous ability of bulbs, lumen value as a unit of measurement, projecting the luminous flux away into the distance effectively, which depends on the ability of lens and reflectors. Reflective cover is also called reflection cup, also called reflective mirror or reflective bowl, all is the same thing. It is most called reflective cover of reflective bowl for halogen lights, while for xenon lights, the assembly of lens and reflective bowl is called lens, but it is most called reflective cup or lens for LED lighting fixtures. There will be detailed description in the following, almost same things. How far the light from bulbs could project or illuminate, that depends on the secondary reflective, namely reflective cover or lens. Every long shot lighting fixture has this spare part.

When car inspection, it is required that each illuminance of two headlights is above 15,000 CD, the highest is 220,000 CD, and the unit is Candela. What the low beam and high beam of headlights looks like, which has been determined by the light type, such as the tangent of low beam, the focus of high beam, then the Candela value becomes the only measurement of how far the headlights can shine, not the lumen value, but how did the Candela value come from?

2) Luminous intensity

light bar

The luminous flux emitted by a light source at a unit solid angle in a given direction is defined as the luminous intensity of the light source in that direction, denoted in I  Unit: Candela

How far it can shine, the luminous intensity is the lumens value per solid angle, which roughly means how many lumens of light flux from the bulb are projected into this solid angle, also known as luminous intensity or luminous intensity.

Take another look at the concept of solid angle.


The solid angle is 4π for the center of a sphere a circle outward, then the solid angle of China's local area to the earth is:

9.6 million square kilometers/square of the earth radius = 9.6 million /(6371 km *6371 km) = 0.2365 radians, accounting for 1.88% of the earth's 4π, the luminescence of bulbs is also 4π solid angle, as to how to focus the light on the desired solid angle, it depends on the design of the secondary reflection, such as reflectors of halogen headlights, lens of Xenon headlights, and reflective cups or lenses for LED lights.

If a 10W LED emits a light flux of 1000 lumens, with the reflector, the light will be reflected at an angle of 4 degrees, as shown below:

light bar

If only 60% of the light is reflected by the reflector and 40% of the light is directly irradiated out without reflection to form flood light, then the luminous flux at the central light spot is 1000*60% = about 600 lumens, and the angle of central light spot formed by the luminous flux of 600 lumens is 4 degrees, and the solid angle is:

ω = A/ R2 = π*3.5 m *3.5 m/(100 m *100 m) = 0.00382 radians(calculated from above formula)

In fact, due to the LED luminous efficiency and reflection loss of reflective cup, the light loss when penetrating the glass, the actual lighting fixture of this design can only reach more than 90,000 CD, 157,000 CD is pure theoretical value.

When the angle of the central light spot is 4 degrees, no matter how far it is, the luminous intensity is the theoretical value of 157,000 CD, so the CD value of the luminous intensity does not change with the distance. Such as 4 degrees 100 meters is 7 meters diameter for the center light spot, it can shiny at least 7 meters wide, up to 200 meters, it can shine 14 meters wide at least, let us see how it looks like if shining to 200 m, as the chart below, but these two 4 degrees more than 90000 CD, the total is nearly 180000 CDS, here to make clear a problem, that is the further the light shines, the wider it is, as a divergence angle of 4 degrees. If you do not understand, look at the picture below:

light bar

Since this CD value of luminous intensity does not vary with distance, what does it matter with distance.

As can be seen from the figure above, when the distance is five times greater than the maximum size of the light source, the above theorem applies. The unit is lux for the data from the illuminometer we usually use, can it also be converted into CD value of luminous intensity, according to the test data from a group of IcAR top car friends SLPP:

light bar

Luminous intensity = illuminance * distance from light * Distance from light = 10160 Lux *3M*3M = 91440 CD, more than 90,000 data from a single light proves that the Philips XV+ Hella 5 is quite good at high beam effect. But that is just the brightness of the focus, that is to say, the maximum, from focus outward, the luminous intensity will go down slowly, which is related to that the point light source of xenon bulbs is easy to make a very bright point, while LED could not make such a very focused point, because the LED is area light source, when projecting out, the luminous intensity is the same for all the center light spot, as shown in the figure below:

light bar

On the left is a 35